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Breakfast first. Misal is Pune's favourite breakfast: sprouted-bean curry topped with crunchy farsan, onion and lime, eaten with soft pav. Pune's version balances heat, sweetness and tang. You eat yours at a long-running misal house in the old city's peths.
The Peshwas' Pune. From Kasba Ganpati, the temple of the city's presiding deity, and Lal Mahal, the site of Shivaji's boyhood home, you walk to Shaniwar Wada. Bajirao I finished it in 1732; a fire in 1828 destroyed the mansion, but the walls, bastions and the spiked Delhi Darwaza still stand. On through the market streets to Dagdusheth Ganpati and Tulshibaug, then past the carved façade of Vishrambaug Wada.
Mastani Mahal and mastani. At the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum you see Mastani Mahal, a palace hall of 1734 that was taken apart and rebuilt inside the museum. The walk ends with the drink that shares its name: a mastani, a milkshake thickened with ice cream and topped with another scoop, in a classic old-city parlour.
Good to know. Entry tickets to Shaniwar Wada and the Kelkar Museum are not included; your guide helps you buy them at the gate. Vishrambaug Wada is closed on Mondays, when you see its façade from the street.
Shaniwar Wada, Delhi Darwaza, Bajirao Road, Shaniwar Peth, Pune, Maharashtra 411030
Meet your guide outside the Delhi Darwaza, the main gate with iron spikes on its doors, on the north side of the fort walls.